Now, that we've read about preparing the base in the previous post, (you may read it here Lesson 1: Perfecting the skin; Part 1 Prepping the canvas), lets move on to the second part of it, that is hiding imperfections.
Now, I strongly believe that any makeup looks great IF and ONLY if the base is done well. Whether it is a simple kohl and gloss look, or a heavy smokey eye , or Red lips look. If you have clear, smooth and problem free skin devoid of the slightest of flaws, do consider yourself lucky, but for most people, including me, hardly anyone has smooth flawless skin, devoid of any kind of imperfections. If you can create a smooth and flawless base , you can make your makeup show up better and look more polished and sophisticated, all with the use of the right products that will cover up imperfections, and give your skin a blurry, soft focus kind of effect. And for this, you need CONCEALERS and/or COLOR CORRECTOR.
The terms concealers and color colors are used alternatively sometimes, but to me , these are two different products with a different function, although both of these are used to hide a localized flaw on the face or any other part of body.These two are used, often in conjunction with each other to hide a flaw, and individually sometimes too, depending upon your need.
A color Corrector is a product with colored pigments to mask one particular type of skin discoloration. It is a useful tool to blur out issues like hyper pigmentation or redness. For example,
- If you have Dark Circles or dark patches, you would need a orange color corrector to mask it.
- A green/blue based color corrector can be used to mask redness due to acne, pimples or skin irritations.
- To brighten up a dull complexion, you may use a purple color corrector.
A concealer is a product, that's closer to your skin tone,and gives heavy coverage to mask age spots, open or large pores or minor blemishes.
Both of these products are supposed to be used after primers,and before applying foundation.
How I apply these is, first I use a color corrector to cover flaws like redness around the sides of nose (using a green color corrector), and use an Orange corrector to cover the under eye dark circles, and pigmentation on the cheeks and around the mouth area. After color correcting those areas, I use a concealer that's almost close to my natural skin tone, and apply over the color corrected areas, and also over areas like open pores , the hyper pigmentation on the sides of cheeks, the spectacle mark on the bridge of my nose, and I also use a lighter shade of concealer under the highest part of my brow bone area to give my eyebrows some lift.
Concealers and Color Correctors mostly come in Cream or liquid formulations since these are easy to apply and blend in. Some brands also make concealers in stick form for ease of application and some brands like Bare Minerals makes powdered versions of these too. These products are usually quite drying on the skin, and are often heavier in coverage than a regular concealer, so the tendency to cake or flake on excessively dry skin are high. Always remember to moisturize you face properly , ALWAYS!!
You may either apply these using your fingertips or a concealer brush, whichever method works best for you. In my case, I like to apply these with fingertips because it allows me to have more control over placement of the products. DO NOT blend in the concealer too much. A dab-dab motion works just fine because you are going to top it off with foundation or compact. Only blend out the edges where you have placed your product,NOT the whole of it.
The Kryolan Dermacolor Camouflage Creme Palette that I have usually helps me in masking most of the flaws that I have on my face. It has 2 color correctors, Orange and Green, and three different shades of concealers( D4 is a light concealer that I use under my brows and D5 is exactly my skin color, NC 42 in MAC, and I use it to top my color corrected areas of the face). I love the compact form of this because I can carry this one product everywhere and create a nice base for my makeup. The coverage that I get out of the products is excellent (and very heavy and drying!) , but the end result is beautiful. This costs about Rs 1500 and is very pocket friendly too. When used under a foundation, these don't budge for hours, and go away only when you take makeup off your face. You need to top with a powder (Over your foundation!) only if your skin is extremely oily. All throughout winters, I used these without any powder on top and they stayed for as long as 12 hours (on some rare occasions that I wore makeup for so long!) without turning greasy. In summers, you may need a slight touch up after about 4-6 hours of wear.
Then there is this M.A.C. Select Cover Up Liquid Concealer that I have, which is a medium coverage concealer. It works okay for the under eye areas, not as much to cover pigmentation on my cheeks. This needs to be blended out with a brush.
then there is this The Body shop Tea Tree concealer that I've had for a while now. This is in a stick form. Very hard to apply or blend, but stays for long. It works well for under eye areas, not as much for anything else.
Also brands like Maybelline, Revlon and many others make concealers that are easily available in the Indian market, though Color Correctors would be tough to find in drugstore brands. Bobbi Brown makes an Orange Corrector and so do MAC and Clinique.
Using a color corrector and a concealer in my makeup routine has made a huge impact in the end result of my makeup application. I have a renewed interest in base makeup ever since I discovered these. The way color correctors hide imperfections on my face and gives it a soft blurry glow is really awesome.
Once you start using the correct shades of color correctors and concealers for your skin, you would be amazed at the dramatic results and would never want to look at makeup without these ever!
Till next time, stay happy and play with makeup!
|L: Normal skin, sans any makeup, R: After using a primer, color corrector and concealer|